According to the Fortune article this suggests that I have to track the blade farther to the front of the wheel, which I’ve done. When I check the drift angle I have to angle the work-piece to the left more than I think I should. The table is square side to side and front to back to the blade. I can easily track the blade to the center of the tire’s crown and it stays there after use. So far I have co-planar wheels, the tires that came with the saw are clean and not marred, and again, the brand new blade. Fortune suggests (he said he set his fence to the miter slot years ago and has never re-set it). I’ve read here that lots of people think you can do it with NO drift, as indeed Mr. Fortune recommends) installed and tensioned with ¼” of deflection when slight moderate pressure is applied, I am still having too much drift. BUT, despite having a new ½” 3 tpi skip-tooth blade from BC Saw and Tool (as Mr. I’ve been doing a lot of reading in FWW and other places about the tune up, and I’ve really taken Michael Fortune’s article and followed his advice on tracking, blade selection, etc. I want to resaw some 4” wide boards and, as this is really the first time I’ve put the saw through its paces, I’m using it as an opportunity to tune it up the right way (I’ll mention here that the saw is about 2 years old – see what having three kids will do?). I have been having problems with drift on my bandsaw, a Grizzly G0555 with 6” riser block.
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